Calchaquí Valley, Argentina
In the sun-baked vineyards of Argentina’s Calchaquí Valley, a revolution is quietly fermenting. Its name? Criolla chica.
I remember the first time Agustín Lanús from Sunal Wines introduced me to criolla chica. A relic brought to Argentina centuries ago by old-world winemakers, criolla chica was long seen as a middling-quality grape. It was originally used for communion wine during the time of the conquistadors and later left to reproduce unchecked in the Argentine countryside. But Agustín saw its potential when no one else did.
My first sip of Agustín’s Sunal Ilógico criolla chica — longtime members may remember it from our 2020 Argentine collection — was a revelation. Soft and aromatic, the wine danced with flavors of red cherries and dates, intertwined with dried roses and a light herbal spiciness. It was a far cry from the bold malbecs Argentina is known for: more delicate, more subtle.
With each visit to the Calchaquí Valley, I noticed more wineries paying attention to criolla chica. What started as a whisper has become a conversation, one that Agustín has been leading all along. He even explored our Angastaco vineyard, where 80- to 100-year-old vines, twisted and wise like ancient storytellers, have been patiently waiting for their moment. The vineyard still needs some love before it is ready to make Partnership-quality wines.
I will never forget the day Agustín took me to the Argentine Institute of Viticulture in Mendoza. There, among rows of carefully preserved grape samples, he unveiled his passion project: Guardianes de las Criollas (Guardians of the Criollas). In this lab, they are DNA testing criolla chica to trace its ancestors. It is a testament to Agustín’s relentless pursuit of preserving ancestral and heritage vines and creating wines with a truly unique Argentine identity.
Agustín’s eyes lit up as he explained his mission: “Guardians of the Criollas,” he said, “honoring the work, dreams, and centuries-old traditions of families in the Calchaquí Valleys.” His vision for criolla grapes is to raise their prestige, highlighting their oenological potential, their exclusivity as native varieties, and the rich tapestry of culture, tradition, and terroir they represent.
What struck me most was the community involvement. Families from the Amaicha community contribute grapes from vines rooted in their home gardens. The diversity is astounding: some plants are well-watered and productive, while others are nearly abandoned, yet intensely concentrated in flavor. These grapes, tenderly cared for and harvested by local hands, are crushed in the mobile winery aptly named Chasqui, after the Incan messenger runners. Sunal Exploración, from this year’s Argentine collection, was made from these family-grown grapes.
This recent recognition of criolla chica is not just about a grape getting its due. It is about honoring the relentless dedication of people like Agustín, who believed in this grape before it became fashionable. It is a victory for the underdogs and the small projects that continue to push the boundaries of Argentine wine.
This is not only a win for Agustín and the believers in criolla chica. For us as a partnership, it is like doubling our money on a savvy stock pick. We saw the potential, invested early, and are now reaping the rewards of that foresight.
But why stop here? For those of you with a thirst for more exclusive, cutting-edge wines, I am curating a special list of hand-selected, higher-tier wines. These are not just any bottles. They are direct imports, carefully sourced first-class wines from the most innovative and exceptional producers I have encountered on my travels. To access these rare gems, you will need to be part of our Premium Harvest Group — and the best part is that joining is free.
Congratulations to Agustín, to all of us who believed in this journey from the start, and to you, our discerning members. Here’s to old vines, the stories they tell, and the wines we share. And here’s to the next big discovery. Are you ready to join me for it?
Cheers,
Diego
