What is natural wine, anyway?
Our resident winemaking expert Julien Miquel weighs in on “natural wine.” Is it a regulated term? No. Are so-called natural wines better representations of their local terroir? Julien’s answer may surprise you. And the question hanging over it all: do they make demonstrably better wine, or is the trend driven more by consumer perception?
Let us know your thoughts on natural wine in the comments. The trend does not seem to be going anywhere soon, and we would love to hear your experiences with it.
Introduction
Hello and welcome to your new Bonner Private Wines video, where we learn about wine together every week.
I’m your host, Julien Miquel, a Bordeaux-trained winemaker.
At the beginning of this year, I made a video about the 2024 wine trends — styles and categories that would continue growing in popularity. Sure enough, natural wine was one of those trends, and it keeps appearing more and more in restaurants and wine shops.
Today I want to discuss:
What natural wine actually is
How it is made differently
How I view natural wines as a conventionally trained winemaker
What Is Natural Wine?
The first issue is simple: there is no single official definition of natural wine.
Unlike:
Organic wine, which has certifications
Biodynamic wine, which also follows certified standards
Natural wine is not a controlled or certified term.
Instead, it describes a broad philosophy of minimal intervention winemaking.
How Natural Wine Is Typically Made
Natural wine usually follows these principles:
Grapes are grown organically or biodynamically
Minimal intervention in the cellar
Little to no added sulfites
Fermentation uses indigenous yeasts only
No filtration before bottling
No fining or stabilizing agents
The aim is to make wine in a way similar to how it was produced historically — with as little human correction as possible.
Sulfites and Stability
In conventional winemaking, sulfites are usually added:
After harvest
After fermentation
At bottling
This protects the wine during aging and transport.
Natural wines often avoid sulfites entirely, or use extremely low amounts.
This creates a more fragile wine that can become unstable more easily.
Indigenous Yeasts
Natural wines rely only on naturally occurring vineyard yeasts.
This means:
No commercial yeast strains
Less control over fermentation
Greater unpredictability in the final result
Why Natural Wine Became So Popular
Several factors explain the rise of natural wine:
Consumers increasingly seek products they perceive as authentic
Sustainability matters more than ever
Minimal intervention appeals to buyers looking for transparency
Many drinkers associate natural wine with stronger terroir expression
This has also encouraged greater interest in regional identity and stylistic diversity.
Julien’s Perspective on Natural Wine
In principle, making wine naturally is an attractive idea.
The concept suggests:
Grapes expressing themselves fully
Minimal human interference
Pure terroir in the bottle
However, nature also naturally pushes grape juice toward spoilage.
Without intervention, grape juice can become:
Vinegar
Oxidized
Microbiologically unstable
That is why winemaking techniques exist in the first place.
Common Challenges with Natural Wines
Julien notes that natural wines can sometimes be inconsistent.
Some bottles can be:
Pure
Fruit-driven
Interesting and expressive
Others may show:
Sourness
Oxidation
Volatile acidity
Reduced bottle stability
They are also highly sensitive to:
Heat
Transport conditions
Storage fluctuations
Terroir vs Oxidative Character
A common assumption is that natural wines express terroir more clearly.
Julien’s view is more nuanced:
In many cases, oxidative aromas dominate so strongly that wines from different regions can begin to resemble one another more than expected.
Personal Conclusion
Julien remains open-minded about natural wine.
He enjoys discovering different expressions and tasting broadly, but often prefers producers who:
Farm responsibly
Use minimal intervention intelligently
Apply small technical corrections when needed
A little sulfite, controlled yeast use, or light filtration can help ensure excellent grapes become excellent wine while still preserving terroir.
Final Thought
Natural wine is neither automatically better nor worse.
It is simply another approach — one with both strengths and limitations.
The important thing is understanding what is in the bottle and why it tastes the way it does.
Cheers,
Julien Miquel
