Calchaquí Valleys, Argentina
Our stomachs were full, our lips red, and our faces marked with dusty wrinkles. Guitars and poetry entertained us into the night. The oral tradition runs deep in the north of Argentina, with group singing and spontaneous verses bringing us closer together.
At that moment, we were more than just a group; we were a family. The rustic homestead that welcomed us broke bread without hesitation. Hospitality towards travelers, or forasteros, remains a cherished tradition here. Our hosts anticipated our arrival, preparing everything in advance. Their grandchildren helped with our horses and saddles. They showed us their crafts too, like rolls of virgin wool destined for the cooperative to be transformed into ponchos and saddle ropes. It was heartwarming to experience such warmth and generosity, a testament to the spirit of the valley. Amidst shared stories, both joyous and sorrowful, we learned of their struggles, including the loss of a daughter to COVID-19, leaving them to care for the three young grandchildren who had helped us unpack.
Under that starry night, I found myself reflecting on the surreal nature of this adventure. It felt like something out of a history book, a tale too fantastical to be real. Emotions ran high as the adrenaline of the day gave way to a sense of awe.
The following morning dawned with an early rise, and a soreness that felt like a badge of honor earned from the previous day’s adventure. As I dragged myself up from the ground, my legs protested the movement, reminding me of the miles we’d covered and the rugged terrain we’d conquered. Yet, despite the stiffness, there was a sense of exhilaration in the air, a feeling that we were on the cusp of another day filled with discovery and camaraderie. I was ready to tackle the day ahead. Today’s ride wasn’t particularly strenuous, but it was a long one; we covered approximately 19 miles.
After our usual simple breakfast of mate, coffee, eggs, and cookies, we set out. However, our plans were momentarily thwarted by the escape of one of our four-legged companions, Saturno the mule. With the help of local children, we located him not far from the corral, providing an unexpected opportunity to explore the ranch.
Accompanied by Guri, a farrier for high-level polo horses, I learned about the local goats and their diet. Guri’s keen observation led to a promise to improve the farmer’s bread by providing a goat that would yield better milk — a small gesture with significant implications for the community. Our conversation extended to the diverse types of horses in our troupe, each uniquely suited to the rugged terrain.
Continuing our journey, we encountered picturesque hamlets, colonial houses, and expansive farms with stories of a bygone era. One such stop was a former mule-raising operation that had supplied Chilean mines with hundreds of mules — a reminder of the region’s rich history and industrial legacy.
Lunch consisted of beer and empanadas from a quaint corner store, offering a respite from the midday sun. With occasional stops to adjust saddles and hydrate, we pressed on.
Arriving at our last stop late in the afternoon, we faced the challenge of securing provisions for our final camp. Despite the village’s siesta tradition, we found a sympathetic shop owner who graciously opened his supermarket for us. His hospitality, along with a generous supply of drinks and snacks, rejuvenated our spirits.
Finally, we reached Cuchipampa, the newest vineyard in Agustín Lanús’s winemaking project. Setting up camp amidst hugs and celebrations, we toasted our safe arrival with wine and pisco around two fires. As the night unfolded with guitars and poems, exhaustion and elation mingled, and we drifted into a well-deserved sleep.
The morning after, Agustín shared his vision for the vineyard, brand new and brimming with potential. With no house yet, only a small tool shed, the vineyard hinted at exciting possibilities. I eagerly await the future wines from this and other vineyards involved in the Exploración project, which not only seeks out remote vineyards but also collaborates with local communities to preserve their heritage.
In the upcoming Argentina collection, you’ll have the opportunity to taste a wine from this very project: the Criolla Exploración from Amaicha del Valle, a testament to Agustín Lanús’s commitment to exploration and collaboration. If you haven’t already reserved your spot in this collection, there’s still time to do so.
I have to admit, the drive back was a bit emotional — it wasn’t just dust in my eyes. It was a significant accomplishment, both mentally and physically. And I met some amazing people during this ride. We stay in touch, sharing photos and texts from time to time. Our group held together well, and the memories will stick with all of us, immortalized on these pages. As we always say, there is something beyond just the bottle of wine we bring to the partners of the club.
Cheers,
Diego
P.S. I enjoy reading your comments, so feel free to share your thoughts with me! And remember, there’s nothing like enjoying a glass of wine with good company under the stars — it’s the perfect way to cap off an unforgettable adventure.
I tracked our entire journey using my GPS watch because I was keen to document our path. This allowed me to capture an overview of the landscape and our route through the mountains.
