The defining landmark of the southern Rhône Valley is a set of jagged prehistoric teeth — really Jurassic-age limestone — that poke up from the earth to form the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range. Located practically on top of the Dentelles, Domaine des Florets is a little green mountainside nest of about 8 hectares. Old vines grow on steep, rocky slopes over beds of clay, limestone, and blue marl.

Domain des Florets is committed to developing a viticulture that respects the environment and biodiversity, according to the principles of organic and biodynamic agriculture, as well as an eco-responsible and quality vinification.

Note the freshness in the nose (strawberry, pomegranate, cherry) and the accents of sweet spice. Perfect for lamb or filet mignon.

Montagne de Reims runs east-west along the river Vesle in the hill country on Champagne’s northern fringes – a fluttering ribbon of forests and thickets over silty clay and chalk soil. There, on a large hill near the village of Chamery, winemaker Nicolas Allouchery obsesses over every minute step of the famed méthode Champenoise. Nicolas describes the ideal winemaker as being soumis – rendered into submission – by nature. And Chamery, elevated to Premier Cru back in ‘85, is especially known for curveballs. Nicolas doesn’t fight it, letting pinot dominate, bucking tradition where necessary (opting against filtration), and keeping the process as close to the terroir as possible. He has been rewarded for his deference.

This is a wine that reminds us of exactly what a great Champagne should be: clean, fragrant, crisp as a fall day on the rolling hillsides.

At least some of the Chinon vines that produced this 2018 predate France’s current system of government (the 5th Republic) by about a decade. In that time, they have seen Domaine de Noiré cycle from its apogee, to a long period of decline, then finally to a rebirth under Jean-Max and Odile Manceau who took over the place about 20 years ago.

How could they resist the old vines, the dense forests, and the tuffeau terroir? (Tuffeau is the cream colored limestone used to build all the great Loire châteaux.) Can it get any more Loire? Concordantly, this wine is brimming with Loire caractère – its history, its châteaux, its visions. Very deep purple color, with concentrated aromas of black fruits, cocoa and spices. Its palate is racy and silky with a beautiful freshness; full of depth and personality.

On a northern slope of the Alpilles mountains (the “little Alps”), by the town of St Rémy de Provence, lie the ruins of a 13th century Templar castle. At its feet, or, really, underneath it, is a cave carved out of the mountain rock. Stone arches and pillars reinforce the space, giving it the look of an underground cathedral. It was here, in French oak barrels, that this 2018 aged for 19 months.

Syrah, one of the darkest of the red wines, tends to pop early on the palate — high “attack” to use a musical term. Mourvèdre, a richer if slower wine, adds depth. Winemaker Théo Buravand has managed to turn down the “attack” while turning up the mid-t0-late palate experience to produce a wine that starts surprisingly soft for a syrah, then gradually builds into the powerhouse you were expecting. Look for black cherry, raspberry and smoke (the syrah) with lingering pepper and rich red fruit notes.

Château Tasta, built in the 13th century, overlooks a small valley by the river Dordogne (Bordeaux’s northern river, for non-initiates). Don’t let the word “château” throw you – this is not the domain of the suede driving shoe but rather the weathered work boot. Château Tasta’s 18 hectares are a family operation, worked by the Chevaliers since 1922. Today Patrice, 4th in his line, runs the place along with wife Frédérique. Their son Maxence, né sous un pied de vigne (born at the foot of the vine), stepped up to join his parents in 2021 (and younger son Antoine is well on his way too).

Alors ça, c’est un Bordeaux! From 30 year old vines in a green clay terroir, this 2019 pours into the glass like a deep garnet curtain. The nose evokes a gentleman’s study with notes of cigar box, caramel, a puff of tobacco, enhanced with a touch of ripe red berry. Those same notes become three dimensional once on the palate, with a strong attack before showing a more subtle side that lingers for a finish that leaves us wanting “just a touch more…”

The first thing you notice at Domaine des Deux Fontaines is that the vines have a sculpted look, like topiary. Sylvain Paturaux insists on “goblet” pruning in which the vine’s “arms” (branches) rise up skywards, as if in prayer, or perhaps surrender, to nature.

The advantage of the method is that the grapes get both maximum aeration and sun cover, which is key for Sylvain’s 80-year-old vines. And it must be said that the rather primeval look fits well with the wild, forested environs of this northern-most area of Beaujolais.

A great Gamay compares considerably well in value to a vastly more expensive pinot noir from just a stone’s throw north in Burgundy. And that’s certainly true with this 2022. The result leans less on earthiness and more on the fruits of forest and hedge-row — notably blackberries and currants.