Mas Vilella – 2021

Organic
Cabernet sauvignon, Sumoll
Long aging potential
Only 1,105 cases produced

Sumoll grapes are native to the Penedès region of Catalonia; elsewhere they are almost entirely unknown. Even in Catalonia, they have become a rarity since Spain’s entry to the EU in 1986 (creating a common market which brought all of Europe’s winemakers into direct competition with one another).

The 16th century farmhouse where Albert Jané makes his small batch wines may sit on what was once a Roman villa, complete with a wine cellar. Amphora and earthenware jug necks have been found in the vineyard. The Janés arrived a good bit later, with Albert’s grandfather opening their first winery in 1914; Albert’s parents planted the exact vines that produced this 2021 back in 1984.

In this 2021, the sumoll adds an interesting earthiness, a distinctly Mediterranean quality to what could have easily become a California-like cab sauv. Dried herbs join creamy oak and fruit in the nose which then becomes powerful ripe fruit and spice on the palate.