Montagne de Reims runs east-west along the river Vesle in the hill country on Champagne’s northern fringes – a fluttering ribbon of forests and thickets over silty clay and chalk soil. There, on a large hill near the village of Chamery, winemaker Nicolas Allouchery obsesses over every minute step of the famed méthode Champenoise. Nicolas describes the ideal winemaker as being soumis – rendered into submission – by nature. And Chamery, elevated to Premier Cru back in ‘85, is especially known for curveballs. Nicolas doesn’t fight it, letting pinot dominate, bucking tradition where necessary (opting against filtration), and keeping the process as close to the terroir as possible. He has been rewarded for his deference.
This is a wine that reminds us of exactly what a great Champagne should be: clean, fragrant, crisp as a fall day on the rolling hillsides.
