Sylvain Paturaux La Presle Fleurie 2022

The first thing you notice at Domaine des Deux Fontaines is that the vines have a sculpted look, like topiary. Sylvain Paturaux insists on “goblet” pruning in which the vine’s “arms” (branches) rise up skywards, as if in prayer, or perhaps surrender, to nature.

The advantage of the method is that the grapes get both maximum aeration and sun cover, which is key for Sylvain’s 80-year-old vines. And it must be said that the rather primeval look fits well with the wild, forested environs of this northern-most area of Beaujolais. 

A great Gamay compares considerably well in value to a vastly more expensive pinot noir from just a stone’s throw north in Burgundy. And that’s certainly true with this 2022. The result leans less on earthiness and more on the fruits of forest and hedge-row — notably blackberries and currants.